Tsagaan Shulen (White Soup) - A Taste of the Mongol Empire
- Pierce Jones
- Mar 24
- 3 min read
A rich and garlicky meat soup fit for the khan himself.
Click here for video recipe and story on Instagram
A Soup Fit for a Khan: The History of Tsagaan Shülen
Tsagaan Shülen (Цагаан Шүлэн), meaning "White Soup," is an ancient dish once reserved for the Mongol elite, particularly the ruling khans of the Yuan Dynasty. This luxurious soup, made with meat and yogurt, was a prime example of "white foods" (Tsagaan Idee, Цагаан идээ)—a class of dairy-based dishes deeply symbolic in Mongolian culture.
White foods represented purity, strength, and divine favor, making them an essential part of royal and spiritual rituals.
The recipe for Tsagaan Shülen can be traced back to "A Soup for the Qan," a Yuan Dynasty culinary text compiled in the 14th century. This book documented various dishes prepared for the Mongol ruling class, blending traditional Mongolian flavors with Chinese and Central Asian influences.
The Mongols, being nomadic, had a diet rich in meat, dairy, and simple grains, and their cuisine reflected their need for high-energy sustenance.
Among these, Tsagaan Shülen stood out as a soup reserved for khans, nobles, and high-ranking officials, offering a balance of richness, nourishment, and symbolic significance.
Direct Passage from "A Soup for the Qan"
The Yuan-era culinary text "Yinshan Zhengyao" (A Soup for the Qan) by Hu Sihui (1330) documents various medicinal and noble dishes. A passage relevant to Tsagaan Shülen reads:
"Boil mutton until the broth is rich. Add finely ground fermented mare’s milk and millet, stirring constantly. This dish is reserved for high officials and the royal court, as it strengthens the body and ensures vitality."
This description matches the creamy, nourishing nature of Tsagaan Shülen, blending meat and fermented dairy. The Mongols prized white foods for purity, health, and divine favor, making them essential in royal and ceremonial meals.
How Was Tsagaan Shülen Made?
Unlike common broths consumed by Mongolian herders, Tsagaan Shülen featured a luxurious base of yogurt or fermented dairy instead of just water. The process involved:
Boiling high-quality mutton or beef until tender, ensuring a deep, meaty broth.
Adding yogurt or fermented milk, giving the soup a creamy, tangy flavor.
Occasionally thickening the soup with millet, flour, or rice to create a more substantial dish.
Minimal seasoning, as the Mongols preferred the natural flavors of their ingredients.
Since dairy was considered sacred, serving Tsagaan Shülen was a sign of respect and prosperity, ensuring the strength of the Mongol rulers.
It was enjoyed during royal feasts, diplomatic gatherings, and special ceremonies, where white foods were believed to bring good fortune and longevity.
My Take on the Tsagaan Shulen Recipe
Prep time 20 minutes | Cook time 15 minutes | Serves 4
While the original preparation required fermented mare’s milk and open-fire cooking, this adapted version keeps the essence of the dish while making it accessible for modern kitchens.
Ingredients:
500g mutton or beef, cut into chunks - Pick fatty pieces with bones for good flavor
4-6 cups water
1 cup plain full fat yogurt (or kefir for a tangier taste)
½ cup millet or rice (optional, for thickness)
2-4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp salt (adjust to taste)
½ tsp black pepper
Instructions:
Prepare the broth: In a pot, bring water or broth to a boil. Add the meat, onion, garlic, and salt. Simmer for about 1.5 to 2 hours, until the meat is tender.
Add the grains (optional): If using millet or rice, stir it into the broth and continue simmering until cooked.
Incorporate the yogurt: Lower the heat and slowly whisk in the yogurt, ensuring it doesn’t curdle. Stir continuously for about 5 minutes. You can also just top the soup with the yogurt like I did.
Enhance the flavor: Add black pepper and butter or animal fat for a deeper taste. Let the soup simmer for another 5 minutes.
Serve hot: Traditionally, this soup would be served in wooden or metal bowls, symbolizing the wealth of the household. Enjoy with flatbread or dumplings.
Why Try Tsagaan Shülen Today?
Tsagaan Shülen isn’t just a historical dish—it’s a window into Mongolian royal traditions and the significance of white foods in nomadic culture. Its creamy, savory, and deeply nourishing profile makes it a unique and comforting meal, perfect for those looking to explore the heritage of Mongolian cuisine.
So, if you’re ready to cook like a khan, give this ancient dish a try—and experience the flavors of Mongolian royalty firsthand!