Overview
The Basque Country remains as one of the largest nations in the world without a state. You can feel it here. Look around the ancient streets in any of the cities, large of small, and you can see graffiti, signs and symbols referring to the Basque independence and the importance of the movement. The Basque people are proud of their heritage and would hate to be mistaken as anything Spanish.
They have their own food culture, own language, own traditions and most importantly, way of life. The Basque country extends all the way to Santander in the west and to southern France in the east, with Vitoria as its de facto capital. The country itself is stickingly beautiful, dotted with rolling grassy hills, the beginning of the pyrenees mountains as well as rivers, vineyards and other excellent natural wonders.
San Sebastian is a gorgeous city of 100,000 people perched gloriously upon the Atlantic. San Sebastian is characterized by its beaches, by its old town and most importantly, by its importance to New Basque Cuisine, becoming the city with the most Michelin stars in the world per capita besides Tokyo.
San Sebastian first and foremost is a surfing town, with one of the best surfing beaches on the Iberian peninsula. People come from all over the world to surf Playa Zurriola and it is a tradition that has enveloped the residents of San Sebastian with the laid back lifestyle that surfing embodies.
Historically, San Sebastian was the old summer getaway for Spanish royalty and you can really see it in the larger tourist beach to the west, Playa de la Concha. The beach is characterized by a main promenade that extends for about two kilometers, wrapping around the coastline. Kalea La Contxa (Shell Street) is adorned with massive hotels, summer homes and palaces sitting high above it all, creating a majestic dichotomy of natural and architectural beauty.
View from El Muro
Peine Del Viento
View from atop Urgull
Old Town Streets
Is it Cheap?
Yes, but not compared to the rest of Spain. San Sebastian is certainly cheaper than many spots in Western Europe although it is a bit pricy by Spanish standards. The city is small so Transportation isn’t really a concern. The food and wine are cheap, but tapas style eating is tricky because it can really add up fast. If you can control yourself at the bar, you will be just fine.
What to Do
The best view of the city can be seen from Castillo del Mota which is perched majestically atop Monte Urgull, a large mount near the old town. The top of Monte Urgull gives the only view of both Playa de la Concha and Playa Zurriola and take about 20 minutes to climb up.
Take a stroll on La Concha, the largest beach in San Sebastian
Surf with the crowds at Zurriola
Take a 3 hour coastal hike to Pasaia and find the quiantest Basque village at the end
Wander the chaos that is Parte Vieja and its 250 restaurants and bars
Watch a soccer game at Estadio Anoeta and cheer on Real Sociedad
Learn about Basque history at Museo San Telmo
Watch the sunset and have a beer with locals at El Muro
What to Eat and Drink in San Sebastian
Pintxos
In San Seb, Pintxos are king. They serve not only being any welcome accompaniment to a vino tinto but also a part of the lifestyle. The Basque and Spanish in general are a going out culture. Every night you will see people of all ages, all walks of life converging in small restaurants in the old town for cheap drinks and tasty bites. Pintxos range in preparation but many other them are a tostada with a topping.
San Sebastian is known for their fish so you will see anchovies, salmon, crab and squid as a recurring theme on an Pintxo bar. Along side the fish there are tortillas, croquets, jamon, mushrooms and other Mystical treats all excellently prepared. You can’t go wrong with any of the pintxos but the Txangurro (spider crab) is a local favorite.
Bocadillos
Bocadillos are more or less baguette sandwiches filled with spanish favorites such as jamon, tortilla de patate or queso de cabra (goats cheese). They are cheap, omnipresent and well loved.
Sidra
Sidra is a Spanish apple cider very different than the kinds you may be accustomed to. It is opaque, unaged and tart while being extremely drinkable at 11 percent ABV. You can tell someone has ordered a sidra when the bartender is pouring the bottle nearly 3 feet above the glass. It’s tradition.
Bisteca
The steak in San Seb is legendary and served best with fresh Basque Country tomatoes and green peppers. They do thick cuts and show you at the table before grilling it rare and topping it with sea salt.
Keler Beer
A San Seb staple and their proudest beer achievement, Keler is something like I have never had before. Creamy on top like a guiness while crisp throughout like a pilsner. I simply couln’t get enough.
Foie a la Plancha
A goose liver, fried quickly on the grill and topped with sea salt. Should I say more?
Favorite Spots
Uhmami- Great local sandwich joint
Borda Berri- Great made to order Pintxo place. Try the veal cheeks with red wine sauce
La Chuchara San Telmo- Small join packed with tons of people and big flavors. Hectic getting your food but worth the wait. Get the Lomo, that’s aged beef.
Sirimiri- Modern take on Pintxos but incredibly satisfying
Bar Nestor- Best steak in town, hands down
Transportation
San Sebastian itself is small so transportation shouldn’t be a concern. The average walk from one end of the city to the other is only about 30 minutes. If you do want to get around another way than by foot, they have a bus system and taxis.
Where to Stay
San Sebastian is certainly a seasonal place so hostels are expensive and full in the summer and autumn. Stay at Surfing Etxea. Its in the In Gros district of San Sebastian near the main surfing beach. Laid back vibes, quiet at night with an excellent bar downstairs. Feels much like a shared flat and may be the cleanest place I have ever stayed in outside of a private hotel room.
Internet and Phone - Sim Local, the Best Way To Stay Connected in Spain
San Sebastian offers a range of phone and internet connection options tailored for tourists. Visitors can choose from various local SIM cards and mobile plans available at numerous kiosks, stores, and the airport, ensuring seamless connectivity throughout their stay. Public Wi-Fi is widely accessible in cafes, hotels, and popular tourist spots, making it easy to stay connected.
Being a person who is constantly on the go, I stay connected effortlessly on my travels with Sim Local. Get your eSIM instantly and enjoy high-speed internet without the hassle of finding a local SIM card. Whether you're in San Sebastian for a short trip or an extended stay, SIM Local provides flexible data plans that keep you connected to family, friends or work, from where ever you are. The best part is that if your trip is canceled or you change your mind, great customer service is waiting, as well as a fair refund policy. You can check out Sim Local by clicking here.
Clubbing and Nightlife
San Sebastian has a vibrant nightlife filled with tons of different places to drink and eat. The old town has over 100 different bars, Siderias and beer houses for you to try. In Spain, the locals stay up late and in San Sebastian it is no different. You will see locals and tourists a like drinking and eating until the wee hours of the morning. An insider tip would be to go to the Gros district on Thursday nights for Pintxo Pote. It’s a special deal that the restaurants there have worked out where a Pintxo and a drink costs two Euros. It’s easily one of the best deals you will find anywhere.
My Travel Essentials For A European Backpacking Trip
Below you'll find a list of my must bring backpacking items. I have gotten this list down to my essentials through trial and error over 4 years of living in a backpack. I hope you'll find these items helpful on your journey!
►Main Backpacking Backpack: https://amzn.to/3vUHdik [Amazon]
►Great Front Facing Duffle-bag : https://amzn.to/3SjK6Ra [Amazon]
►Quick Dry Towel : https://amzn.to/3uarxH8 [Amazon]
►Multi Country Charger Adapter : https://amzn.to/3Ul37p0 [Amazon]
►Refillable Water Bottle : https://amzn.to/48SnG0n [Amazon]
►Padlock : https://amzn.to/3SdyYp7 [Amazon]
►Earplugs : https://amzn.to/498xTpl [Amazon]
►Power Bank : https://amzn.to/3SyXP8e [Amazon]
Travel Photography & Video Favorites
If you're interested in creating your own video content on your trip, these are some of my favorite items I've had. They work, they're effective and besides the Sony Aa7C, they aren't going to break the bank either!
►On the Go Video | Go Pro Hero 12 : https://amzn.to/3u38oHh [Amazon]
►Photography | Sony A7C : https://amzn.to/3u1Y6ap [Amazon]
►Portable Tripod | https://amzn.to/42ojHqc [Amazon]
►Lavalier Microphone | https://amzn.to/3SbL41U [Amazon]
►Drone | https://amzn.to/47TCwSY [Amazon]
►Portable Monitor | https://amzn.to/3Hzv2dg [Amazon]
All links are affiliate links with amazon which I may generate revenue from. These are products I actually have used for years and would feel comfortable recommending to first time and experienced travelers alike.